Beneficial Plants

Plant Chives around roses to help repel aphids.
Coriander attracts beneficial parasitic wasps, while coreopsis and cosmos attract lady bugs and parasitic wasps.
Flax enhances the growth of carrots and potatoes.  It shields potatoes from the Colorado potato bug.
Drive away cabbage worms with Geraniums.  Planted around corn and grapes, they help defend against Japanese beetles.
Marigolds destroy nematodes and enhance the flavor of ripe tomatoes.  Planted around beans, they repel bean beetles.
Sweet Alyssum attracts beneficial hover flies, lacewings, parasitic wasps, and pirate bugs.
 

Composting

I have several compost heaps around the perimeter of my garden.  One, a bin, is used for small stuff...unfortunately I rarely remember to use it!  The other is an all purpose pile in the corner of the garden that gets used all the time.  I don't mind throwing weeds in if they are not flowering or seeding yet.  I throw the spoils of the garden on it, and I throw grass trimmings on it.  Occasionally I'll put a shovelful or two of dirt on it, and periodically I'll water it down when the temps are high.

According to Martha Stewart's crew (1999), compost can be used as nutritious soil amendment to your existing beds.  Many households can compost up to half their trash!

So, how do you start a compost pile?  First, do you want to have bins, shallow trenches, or open piles?  Bins can be made by taking 2 10 foot lengths of 4x4 treated lumber, cutting them in half and sinking them into the corners of your intended compost plot.  Wrap heavy gauge fence around three sides and attach it to the posts with U nails, leaving one side open for access to your compost.  Shallow trenches (about 1 foot deep and 4 ft long) can be dug and covered as the compost ingredients are added to the full line.  Trenches take up more room, but are very easy.  I have also seen people pile the compost and cover it with tarps in order to preserve the necessary moisture needed to heat the compost.

Making compost requires a balance of two basic ingredients - brown and green.  These materials should be chopped into small pieces if they are big to start with.  A large amount of woody compost ingredients will slow down the decomposition.  Martha has provided a handy reference list to go by:
 
 
Brown
Fallen leaves
Pine needles
Sawdust
Shredded newspaper
Straw
Small twigs and branches
Wood chips and shavings
Green
Pesticide-free grass clippings
Fruit and veggie scraps
House-plant trimmings
Soft prunings from the garden
Eggshells
Farm-animal manure
Spent flowers and plants
Coffee grounds
Used tea bags
POISON!
Do not use:
Animal products (meat, bones, fats, and dairy products)
Anything that has been treated with insecticide or herbicide
Stones
Metal
Cardboard
Glass
Diseased plants
Pieces of eucalyptus, red cedar, or black walnut trees
Large branches
Large wood chips

Begin with a 6" - 12" layer of brown material, then add about the same amount of green ingredients.  Spread a small amount of soil on this mixture.  Repeat this process until the pile is at least 3 feet high and 3 feet wide.  In most areas, rainfall will keep the compost heap moist, but if the weather is dry, add water - the compost should be damp, but not wet, at all times;  if the compost is too wet, add some brown dry material to soak the excess moisture.  Aerate the mixture by turning it with a pitch fork a couple times per week to speed decomposition.  Continually add equal parts of brown and green ingredients, turning the compost with each new addition.  If done properly, the compost will heat up to more than 120 F.  After a couple of months, you will have a rich addition to your garden plot and flower beds!

Thanks, Martha!  I think I'll go out and re-think my compost heap.

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